Pje. José de Sucre 110, Huaraz
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Overview
- Duration:10 hours 0 minutes
- Travelers:1 - 12 guests
- Tour Type:Single-Day Expeditions
- Language:English
Your journey begins with a private pickup from your hotel in Huaraz, heading toward the heart of the Ancash Massif. Upon arriving at the trailhead near the Punta Olímpica tunnel, you will meet your professional local team—certified guides who are not just technical experts, but your protectors and companions throughout the day. As we begin the approach, you will witness the raw beauty of the high-altitude tropics, moving through a landscape of granite peaks and turquoise glacial lakes in a safe, expertly managed environment.
Safety through Connection Walk alongside our guides, who share the ancestral stories of the Cordillera Blanca and the individual history of the communities that call these mountains home. Throughout the route, you will have the freedom to photograph and immerse yourself in the landscape at your own pace. While you focus on the horizon, our team monitors your well-being with professional safety protocols and constant O2 saturation checks, ensuring your body adapts comfortably to the 5,150 masl (16,896 ft) environment.
The Summit Reward As you reach the crystalline crest of Pico Mateo, the magic of Andean hospitality truly shines. Instead of basic rations, you will enjoy a nutritious, high-protein snack and hot beverages prepared by our team, designed to fuel your recovery while you stand among the giants. While our crew handles the logistics and technical gear, you can focus on the panoramic views of Contrahierbas and Chopicalqui, sharing stories with your fellow travelers and the local team that ensured your safety.
A Professional Return The descent is a time for reflection as we move back through the moraine toward our private transport. You return to Huaraz not just with the achievement of your first glacier summit, but with the peace of mind that comes from a truly human and professional Andean experience. You leave the mountain not as a tourist, but as a friend of the Cordillera.
Highlights
- Reaching the historic 5,150 masl (17,060 ft) summit: Standing at the technical heart of the Ancash Massif.
- Spectacular views of the Huascarán Massif: Witnessing Peru's highest peaks from a privileged glacial vantage point.
- The iconic Contrahierbas and Ulta Valley Viewpoint: Gazing at the turquoise lakes and vertical granite walls of the high-altitude tropics.
- Roping up on the pristine Mateo Glacier: Waking up surrounded by the silence and majesty of the Andean giants.
- Professional logistics with veteran mountain guides: Ensuring supreme reliability and warm human care during your first glacial ascent.
Itinerary
03:00 AM – Private Pickup in Huaraz
Your expedition begins under the Andean stars. Our private transport picks you up directly from your hotel for a 2.5-hour journey through the traditional towns of Carhuaz and Shilla. This early departure is a professional safety standard, ensuring we reach the glacier while the snow is at its firmest and most stable.
05:30 AM – Arrival at Punta Olímpica (15,551 ft)
We reach the trailhead at the impressive Punta Olímpica Tunnel as the first light hits the Ancash Massif. Here, your guide will perform a meticulous gear check and assist you in fitting your specialized mountaineering boots and crampons before we begin the ascent.
06:00 AM – Moraine and Rocky Terrain Approach
We start the climb on the left side of the tunnel, navigating a steep rocky trail and moraine for approximately two hours. During this stretch, our team monitors your O2 saturation and heart rate to ensure your body is adapting comfortably to the increasing altitude.
07:30 AM – Glacier Entry and the 40m Ice Wall
Upon reaching the edge of the glacier, we rope up. The technical challenge begins by conquering a 130 ft (40m) steep ice wall. Your certified guide will set a safety rope and provide personal assistance to help you clear this section with total confidence.
08:00 AM – Glacial Slope Ascent
The route continues with a steady climb over beautiful snow slopes of 40 to 50 degrees. Your guide will provide constant instruction on ice axe technique and crampon placement as you navigate short sections of hard ice in a safe, expertly managed environment.
09:30 AM – Pico Mateo Summit (17,060 ft / 5,150 masl)
The moment of triumph. From the broad summit, you are rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding giants, including Huascarán, Contrahierbas, and Chopicalqui. We take ample time for professional photography and to savor the high-altitude silence.
11:00 AM – Controlled and Secure Descent
We begin the descent following the same route. Safety remains the priority, and your guide will manage the rope team with precision to ensure a steady pace while the snow conditions are still optimal.
12:00 PM – Return to Private Transport
Back at the trailhead, we stow the technical gear. You can relax and enjoy the dramatic scenery of the Ulta Valley as we drive back toward the valley floor.
02:00 PM – Arrival in Huaraz and Hotel Drop-off
We return you directly to your hotel. You finish the day early, with the afternoon free to rest and the peace of mind that comes from a professionally managed Andean summit experience.
Includes/Excludes
- Punctual hotel pickup and drop-off in Huaraz.
- UIAGM/AGMP certified expert mountain guide and protector.
- Specialized high-altitude climbing equipment including boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and helmet.
- Private 4x4 rugged transport to the glacial trailhead.
- Professional safety kit including O2 and pulse oximetry monitoring.
- Continuous technical support and personalized pace for a safe summit.
- Meals and snacks (Please bring your own high-energy box lunch).
- Purified water and personal beverages.
- Huascarán National Park Entrance Fee.
- Personal technical clothing including waterproof layers and gloves.
- Polarized mountain sunglasses (Category 3 or 4).
- Personal travel and mountain rescue insurance.
- Gratuities for your dedicated mountain guide.
Frequently asked questions
What to bring
- Specialized Footwear: Comfortable trekking boots for the approach and thick thermal wool socks to wear with the climbing boots we provide.
- Technical Daypack: A 25L to 30L backpack to carry your personal layers, technical gear, and high-energy food.
- Sun Protection: High SPF sunscreen, UV lip balm, a warm beanie, and Category 3 or 4 polarized sunglasses to prevent snow blindness.
- Personal Climbing Gear: We provide the harness, helmet, ice axe, and crampons; trekking poles are highly recommended for the steep moraine descent.
- Headlamp: A powerful headlamp with fresh batteries is required for the 3:00 AM start and early morning approach.
- Hydration and Nutrition: You must bring at least 2L of water and a high-energy box lunch, as no food or water is provided.
Not allowed
- Alcohol and Smoking: Forbidden during the expedition due to extreme altitude and the technical safety requirements of the ice wall.
- Cotton Clothing: Items like jeans or cotton shirts are not permitted as they retain moisture and increase hypothermia risks.
- Uncertified Drones: Use of drones is restricted by park regulations unless official permits are obtained in advance.
Know before you go
- No Food or Drinks: No meals, snacks, or water are provided; all participants must be self-sufficient regarding nutrition and hydration.
- Acclimatization: At least 2 to 3 days of prior activity above 3,000 masl in Huaraz is required before attempting this 17,060 ft summit.
- Physical Demand: Good physical condition is necessary to navigate 50-degree snow slopes and the technical 40m ice wall entry.
- Safety First: Your guide will perform regular O2 saturation checks and has the final authority to turn back if weather or health risks arise.
Extra Services
Local Transfers & Arrivals
We provide private transportation from Anta Airport (ATA) and Huaraz bus terminals directly to your hostel. As a licensed local tour operator, we guarantee safety, premium quality, and the peace of mind that comes with our extensive regional expertise and professional service.
Secure Storage & Concierge
Travel light and worry-free. As a local tour operator, we provide secure, monitored storage for your non-trekking luggage at our Huaraz headquarters. Our team offers expert concierge assistance for the best local dining, hotel bookings, and recovery services, ensuring you have professional support throughout your stay.
Specialized Summit Porters
Vital support for technical summits like Alpamayo. Experienced high-altitude porters carry heavy gear between camps, saving your energy for the climb. Please note: rates are charged per porter, per day. We ensure reliable, fairly-paid local staff with essential expedition experience.
Technical Gear Rental
Access premium high-altitude equipment without the luggage weight. We offer high-end essential gear rental, including 4-season tents, technical mountaineering boots, ice axes, and specialized alpine clothing, all maintained to international safety standards.